out of Africa 24

We left our fancy Hotel Pietra in Fianarantsoa to continue on the second last day of our Madagascan tour only to end up in another fancy establishment in Ansirabe. This town also happens to proudly be the hometown of our driver. He tipped us out and bailed very quickly to go and hang out with his family. There is not much to report today as it really was a driving day but as always there is never a dull moment on the RN7 highway. Here is a montage of  just another day in the life of the Malagasy people going about their business and where they live. Tomorrow we return to Antananarivo for a few days to make the most of the chaotic capital.

Early start as always. Firstly to make the most of this magnificent beach before we leave and then to catch the speed boat back to Toliara. Above is not to speed boat but glorious to watch. Our driver man wants to be on the road by 9, to fit in this long, long day. Not anticipating arriving in Fianarantosa until about 8 tonight so it’s a big day. Our only stop has been for lunch at about 3. It’s also the day we turn around and make our way northward towards Antananarivo. A lot of the places we popped into for lunch we will stay in on the return leg, so that is nice, Fianarantosa is one of those towns but to be fair, we won’t see much. It’s a fun day on the road, in and out of villages. The goings on in the villages and on the road I will never tire of. The road most of the way has been ok and we could  clock up the k’s quickly but there are always those parts where the bitumen is just a little island in a sea of gravel and dust. We did arrive about 8.30pm, quick beer and catching ...

We may have thought that today was a day of rest at the beach and all but our driver has other plans. He has teed up a visit to an area where the Boab tree and Spikey Forest  are in a conservation area that is near to where we are staying. We have known about the Spikey Forest and were keen to see it and there is another huge park just off the highway but we didn’t have time to see it as we were driving through so this is a bit of a bonus. There are many species of these strange looking plants and 95% of them are endemic to Madagascar.  Most just look like really strange cacti. The park is also home to the oldest Boab tree in Madagascar, well over 200 years old. Stuart was happy to show his love for the grandma of all Boabs by climbing her.! We also visited the Village de Torturs. A rescue area for turtles that have been confiscated at airports as humans choose to smuggle them. Apparently having turtles in your house fends of witch craft and their urine cures asthma…… Transpo...

From one beach to another! Short car ride into Toliara then an hr on a fast speed boat to anakao.  Interesting approach to boarding, moderate tides with relatively flat seabed means no jetty or pontoons. We board from a trailer behind a tractor, the zebu carts help load boat and outriggers. The place looks a bit like a desert has overtaken a beach town. Beautiful sandy beach protected from ocean swell by coral reefs. Off shore is a small island “Nosy Ve”, we think it has significant cultural significance, but are unable to confirm.  To get there was a very pleasant sail in an outrigger, however return trip with unfavourable winds took a bit longer.  On return we were sunburnt (despite fastidious care) and the sun was high and hot.  After a recess in our room, onto the beach for a quick swim before sundowners as we watched the sunset.  Early to bed for a 10hr drive tomorrow 

Excited for today as we head to the coast and the beach.  We have  3 nights around here. The first 2 are at Mangily beach. But I rewind, there is still a road trip before we get there. 230kms to Toliea, which is on the coast and head a bit north after that. 230kms we think, be there by lunch time. Nup, driver wants to leave early as it’s a 6-7 hr trip. He laughs, there is 130km of terrible road but the rest is ok. Arriving about 3ish after the obligatory stop for lunch in Toliea. Well….. Dare I say, it was worth the effort! We are staying at a place called La Bella Donna right on the beach. Giving off very  early days of Bali beach vibes. Our room is above the dive shop and has a verandah for endlessly watching the water and all the fabulous goings on,on the beach. An endless parade of sarongs and wooden lemurs and beads and rattan bags. Couple of sundowners watching the sun set over the Indian Ocean, which is a novelty for us.